New Mansion chef John Tesar is the night horse on the Dallas dining terrain, the diamond in the pot-holed asphalt rough. This interloper could not struggle with or bod upon the traditions and culinary flow iconography that unfolded from the Mansion through the decades under the Lucchese-booted Dean Fearing. So he wisely chose to cynosure on foodstuff and flavor with laser perfection as the restaurant realigned its theme with a much-needed multimillion-dollar cosmetic surgical procedure.
Its dusty, cob-webbed Southwestern nomenclature has at bottom disappeared, though tortilla soup remains the informed Mansion wink. The allowance is fittingly understated, with unsullied lines and luxuriant tastefulness helping appointments that suggestion of its sometime formality. And what can you believe about Tesar’s flavors—a near unclassifiable Euro-Yankee mosaic harmonized with undernourished threads of Asian grout? Tesar’s flavors are almost invariably compelling and articulate, compositions that grandeur their protection and up-anchor in their path a palate pooled and an leer teary from seared Hudson Valley foie gras with braised rhubarb, headland gooseberries and Arctic char graced with fennel puree and soy and orange, to roasted Texas guinea fowl with lentil and bacon. Rest in peace, O lobster taco.
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